Cover of the Rolling Stone

When I first read the name Rolling Stone Restaurant and Lounge, I immediately thought of Hard-Rock Cafe and Planet Hollywood. But  a quick search through Google piqued my curiosity and dispelled the thoughts of mediocre and overpriced bar food. Last time we walked down Hollywood Boulevard, we were showing the sights to my sister and her husband visiting from Germany, our own tourist tags barely expired.

Somewhat incredulous to be strolling along the sidewalks looking like natives, mostly oblivious to whose star we might be trampling on the Walk of Fame, we opted for the circuitous Highland Avenue route so we could check out the awesome silo-like front of the restaurant. It is situated right in the middle of one of the most famous locations in the world, a hop from the Kodak (where they have the Oscars) and a skip from Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (where the biggest stars in the world leave their surprisingly small footprints in cement), and a jump across from California Pizza Kitchen. But once we left the kitchy, loud, crowded street and stepped inside, we were greeted by a sleek, modern space, all glass and bold geometry contrasting with soft,  flickering candlelight.

The bar area of the restaurant is not big, but promotes a friendly intimacy that makes conversation possible and likely… an oddity for even a restaurant bar these days. There is enough room to relax on several leather benches, sipping one of the signature cocktails concocted by their own mixologist Tricia Alley. I chose a festive red Wayfarer made from cane sugar rum, house-made Grenadine, citrus juices and a touch of Angostura bitters, but promised myself that next time I would try the pale yellow and very refreshing-looking Whiskey Delicious with muddled cucumbers and mint. We found out that every morning an employee comes in to press and squeeze juices for several hours and that all the ingredients in the cocktails are organic.

While the skilled bartenders entertained the crowd, I walked over to the parapet and took in a glamorous lounge sprawling on the lower floor. A huge crystal chandelier’s icy prisms danced into the sea of violet light bathing luxurious, white, semi-circular booths wrapped around small tables. A different level opening a completely new world with another bar and a promise of a great party night. If  there was music I would have climbed those curving stairs and joined the crowd on the dance floor. But there was no music, nobody was dancing, and I found myself in the main dining room, soaking in the ambiance.

More geometry on the walls, blocks of glass interrupted by black metal, quotes from musicians, their familiar faces rendered in stylish black and white and suspended all around with the subdued neon lights subtly illuminating the tables in changing colors. Another wall of glass overlooked the street. The ceilings had more blocks, more faces, and more inscriptions, but the whole effect was neither overbearing nor busy. I guess we expected that tired Applebees style where they throw a yardsale full of mementos and schlock at the walls. We were happy to see the style was sleek, smooth, and somewhat subtle. Rock-n-roll music played in the background while the servers, dressed all in black, walked around smiling.

The concept of the restaurant’s food is not new, but the approach is different. The Executive Chef, Christopher Ennis, trained in his native New York and here in California, gaining recognition as one of top chefs in Los Angeles. He has lent his expertise to Fig&Olive at Melrose, a  New York based French restaurant group that recently started to expand into California. His menu is versatile and the ingredients sourced whenever possible from local farmers markets.

Dungeness Crab Stuffed Mushrooms ($12) were delectable, brought to the table piping hot, mushrooms perfectly sized for a nice bite, crab meat sweet and creamy. Smoked Trout Toasts ($9) were served with horseradish and marinated baby beets, the textures complementing each other. We loved the bold flavors of Pamplona Chorizo Flatbread ($14), curbed somewhat by Sheep’s Milk Ricotta, Cured Olives, and Fresh Oregano. Our waiter, Buck, originally from Texas, recommended Warm Cheddar Popovers served with Caramelized Apple Butter ($5), and these light, doughy, cheesy bites were perfect to tide us over until the next course.

The salad was a delightful mix of crispy romaine lettuce, sweet roasted baby beets, thin, crunchy slices of Pink Lady apples, spicy hot pecans, and creamy goat cheese. Flaky Pan Roasted Atlantic Salmon ($20) rested on a bed of wilted spinach livened by golden raisins, capers, and fingerling potatoes. Grilled Rack of Lamb ($18 for a half, $34 for a full rack) was a succulent example of medium rare, accompanied by earthy black quinoa, grilled spring asparagus, and Greek yogurt, a Mediterranean-Andean fusion which hit the spot.

The dessert, Seascape Strawberries and Rhubarb Tart, might have been the best example of Chef Ennis’s vision. The flaky, buttery crust hugged honey-sweet local strawberries and tangy rhubarb, while a mascarpone crėme fraiche offered a mild respite. I took my time breaking the crispy crust with my fork, loading it with fruity filling, and scraping some mascarpone on the way up.

Definitely not your mediocre, overpriced bar fare, even though there is  Burger ($14), served with Balsamic Onions, Aged Cheddar, and Smoky Blue Cheese, a Turkey Sandwich ($10) with Melted Brie, Fig Marmalade, Basil, Walnut Raisin Bread, a Reuben ($11), and even an Egg Salad Sandwich ($9).

On our way out, we passed by yet another part of the restaurant called the B-side. This room can accommodate 40 to 50 people. It has a separate entrance off Highland Avenue and its own bar. The walls are dark, made of bricks, and you feel like you are in a Prohibition-era speak-easy. It’s a cozy space, perfect for small, private affairs. It welcomes the local crowd and hopes to build a strong relationship with wary Angelenos.

Our friends and relatives visit often. We take everybody to see the Kodak Theater, Grauman’s, and the Walk of Fame. After everybody takes the obligatory photo with the Hollywood sign in the background, we are usually starving and predictably grumpy. But knowing ahead that we can satisfy everybody’s whims with one visit to the Rolling Stone Restaurant located just around the corner will make our tour-guide experience immeasurably more pleasant.

Rolling Stone Restaurant and Lounge

6801 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, at Highland Avenue.

Phone (323)464-4000.

Website: www.rollingstonela.com.